Saturday, May 9, 2009

10:40 p.m. on a Saturday

and we are all exhausted. We're going hiking on a mountain or near a river or something at 7 a.m. Today we were out at 6:30 a.m. No rest even on the weekends.

People are getting sick. Two of the guys stayed in bed all day, and a few others are coughing (SWINE FLU?!) and sleepy. Speaking of swine flu, one hotel banned us and we weren't allowed to visit a certain University because we "may have swine flu."

Yesterday we were put in groups to interact with some Chinese students. Others said the hour spent talking was awkward, but luckily I was put in a good group. We sang them American National anthem (poorly) and they sang China's. We exchanged small talk about our daily lives and I bombarded them with restaurant recommendation requests and research for my paper. We also played a hand game taught by Keith.




The afternoon was spent in "Little Korea." We went to a lecture given by a woman who started a language school. The focus was a tad unclear-it was a mix between small businesses, woman entrepreneurs, the Korean population, and the importance of Chinese. After Kristen Anne and I explored Little Korea, but by explored I mean we found cute stores and got cute dresses. I also went to my first McDonald's but like in America is only got a hot fudge sundae. There was a lot of yelling and chaos.




Dinner was an "American" dinner of Papa John's pizza and salad. The pizza was awful, cardboard, and tasteless, but I ate three slices out of desperation. One had shrimp and other unidentified objects. Chinese people put anything they want on pizza.



We went out to Hoa Hi again. This time we invited our Chinese friends and our Chinese teachers. Mine didn't come, but the other one did. We got dressed up and went back to our "regular" club. We got the VIP treatment. They put us at a big back table and served us and we danced. Again there were old Asian men there. We stayed for about an hour and then decided to move on. We stopped in a reggae club but then ended up not staying and just walking around. They went back to the club but some of us left. As life goes, we couldn't get a taxi as it started to drizzle. 30 minutes later we got one and headed back to bed.






We awoke EARLY this morning and got breakfast out. I ate another "egg in a bag" on the street and we had some more dumplings in a restaurant.
We went to go see the Mao Mausoleum today. Waiting in line was a miserable experience. We waited in a line of thousands (the amount of people there was amazing)and were pushed around for the entire hour we waited. Robin told me that the Chinese push but I had never experienced it until now. It was amazing how rude these people were and the sense of entitlement they felt to get in front of us. I learned to push back and at the end stuck my elbows out to walk through.


The mausoleum was really strange. It felt like I was going to a wake. Keep in mind that Mao has been dead 33 years. People were still buying flowers (which Anne is convinced they reuse everyday) and praying to the statue of him in the front. After waiting forever, the guards had the nerve to literally rush and push us through the mausoleum. (Probably so I couldn't study his body and see it was a fake)
All of the sudden, there was Mao..in the flesh...or so they say. Under a glass case, visible for all visitors to see, was his body under a communist flag blanket and with a glowing orange lit up heard. They turned Mao into a jack-o-latern. It was creepy seeing him lit up. Some Chinese were crying, but I was unmoved by the whole thing. Clearly I have no connection to Mao. I found it odd and a little unsettling seeing how much these people worshipped this guy. Some of us have been trying to think of a celebrity/politician that would be on the same level and have none.
Maybe Elvis? Would people come see JFK?
I don't think so.
The whole thing was like an amusement park. Waiting for an hour for a short ride that is usually overrated.
I'm glad I went though.
No pictures were allowed, sorry.

For lunch we split into groups and went to people's homes to make dumplings. I went to a lovely apartment with a welcoming family who was hysterical at my (lack of) dumpling skills. The dad really got a kick out of me and though he didn't speak English we somehow communicated enough that I knew he was telling me that I was awful. He was very funny.




I really enjoyed going into the home and seeing the real people of Beijing. It's conversations that take place over tea in someone's living room that I find interesting. They invited us to come back,and after I practice my dumpling skills I just might. I am dumpling-ed out for a few days though.

We had a guest lecturer today who I talked about in the last entry. I wish I could have paid more attention as he was interesting and honest, but I was exhausted.

We had the evening off, but no one did anything thrilling as we were exhausted. We lounged for a a few hours and had plans to go for Middle Eastern food, but then Tom mentioned pasta and I got a hankering for spaghetti. I remembered passing a restaurant called "The West" so some of us headed over.
I'll add pictures soon, but The West was hilarious. It was decorated to look like a typical college bar with sports pennants, American beer, and brick decoration. We sat on the roof with two guys from Florida we met who are studying in Shanghai. One was a sexy black man named Elijah. He gave the others girls his contact info for when we go to Shanghai because he works at clubs and can show us around town.
I had Penne Bolognese and it was so satisfying that I ordered another to go. I miss tomato sauce. They were out of bread which sucked. I also ordered milk and it came hot. It was a nice calm dinner and the first time I ordered for myself at a restaurant here.

Off to bed.
I am caught up now and not stressed.

H

I am thinking about changing the name of this blog

to "The Han(a) Dynasty"-a pun on The Han Dynasty. I am going to give it a few more days and see if I think it's still funny. I got laughs out of Anne and Dave.

I am behind again on blogging. This has become a pattern as I roll in too tired to write/remember. I can barely make it past midnight here.

Going to bed early means I usually wake up around six with no alarm. On Thursday I woke up and went for a walk around the Bamboo Park with Kristen, Alex, and Chris (our professor). Keith and Diana ran. I have said many times I don't run unless I'm being chased. We watched some elderly people who could kick my ass do Tai Chi and other fitness classes.

We also walked home and randomly saw Chris's friend on a balcony. I swear she knows everyone in Beijing.


Chinese class at 8 as per usual. I am awful. My adorable happy teacher even called me out. She said I need to study after class. The people I try to practice with on the bus and at restaurants all smile and I say I am very good. Liars. I really enjoy the class I have to say. Characters intimidate the hell out of me. I wish I spoke Chinese. My kids will. I now know all the polite things to say to start a conversation. I tried on my cab driver-he didn't want any part of my practice.
I can also count very high and say Northeastern in Chinese. My teacher likes to laugh at my pronunciation. It' okay because I love her-thought not as much as Edek who stares at her with affection and asked her to come out clubbing with us. She said yes, but couldn't make it. I got a sticker for doing a good job in Chinese the other day. It was thrilling. No sarcasm.





We had a free afternoon after a lecture, so Kristen, Diana, Anne and I went shopping at the Silk Market. It was nice to get away from the large group-not because I was sick of them, but because it gets overwhelming traveling in a pack. Joan Reil sent us to some pearl stores and when we dropped her name, they dropped the prices. We each bought a lot of stuff-I got earrings and two necklaces for under 20 US.




I had this cool thing off the street for lunch. I have no idea what it was, but I will call it "Egg is a Bag". It was basically a crepe with egg cooked on top and filled with fried dough (fried meat?) and folded. Yum.





This picture makes me laugh. You could not buy kids there.






My new favorite baby:





We had dinner at a Cultural Revolution themed restaurant. It had food and decorations from the era. We sat with people who lived through it and they told us about their experiences. It was like sitting and talking to a Holocaust survivor in a Holocaust themed restaurant. Dave called it "A Johnny Rockets with a Cultural Revolution theme". I found it so bazaar and tacky. Also, Chris kind of tried to gloss over the negatives of the CR. The woman told us that students in her school beat a teacher to death. Chris said, "Well what she means is that it was a hot day and when the kids beat her she had a heat stroke and that's why she died." Anne pointed out to me that she noticed she glossed over the deaths of Intellectuals in her lecture. Odd. Anne also said Li Yan said she was a little offended by it. I would imagine.




Anne and I got our laundry done. For both us together it was 3 dollars US. They didn't dry it so we had to hang it up in an empty room. This has become the unofficial laundry room.

We were so "heartbroken" about China not drying our laundry (there are no dryers here) that we went to bed early.

Stream of Consciousness


Before I post about the last few days, a few thoughts.

A speaker today had some final words that stuck with me. "When people know each other there is no war, there is peace."
Coming to China to learn about Asian culture and history is an unreal experience. I've read about China and have seen it on the news, but being here and seeing the things I learn about in lecture that day is incredible. Teachers of mine have said if you want to learn a language fluently, you must go live in the country in which it is spoken. I think a similar concept applies to learning about history, and especially about culture. I have met people both my age and older (like today at the home I made dumplings in, but more about that later) and I am able to ask them their opinions on issues ranging from the globalization of fast food in China (my possible research topic) to how a typical weekend night is spent. I have also been able to hear firsthand accounts from those involved in historical events such as the cultural revolution. It's going to be difficult to go back to learning history from a book now that I am in a situation where I am able to gain a more well rounded perspective.
I find that when I visit a place it becomes a part of me in the sense that I am much more interested in what is happening in the country when I go home and I will stop and read articles about the places I have been instead of skipping over them. China is constantly in the news and as Kristen said last night, we are here in a time of rapid development. It is a still developing country and we are seeing history. I can't wait to read about what is happening and be able to say "Hey I saw/heard about that when I was in China. This is what it is and this is why it is important." I feel after leaving here I will have a more concrete opinion on issues facing China, whereas when I read about them at home I have a strictly Western perspective from which to asses what I read. Chris (for future reference Professor Christine Gilmartin is our professor, but some of us call her Chris) said that she finds that the US media often demonizes China and the government. I have to admit, the Chinese (that I've met so far) seem much more content with their lives and have more freedoms than I previously thought. I still have a village and other cities to visit-so we will see if this is true.

After one week here I feel very comfortable in Beijing. I expected the culture shock much worse than I imagined. The Chinese people have been very helpful. I heard from some people that the Chinese were rude, spit, and pushed (the last two are true and I will elaborate later). I felt like a lot of the world, there would be a distaste for the West, but I find except for a few pictures taken of my fellow Caucasians and African Americans there is no harm. I am AWFUL at Chinese, but I really do want to learn. Kristen pointed out how beneficial it would be to be able to communicate with 1/6 of the world population. I could see myself hanging out in Asia for awhile-whether it be studying or living. I need a translator/boyfriend though.



Beijing is a HUGE city. I don't really understand the size of it. It's like LA that you can't walk around it b/c it's so spread out. I also don't understand the architecture. There as modern buildings that are beautiful and then random apartment buildings. It seems that there is so rhyme or reason. This is dialogue I imagine:
"Hey, I have an idea. Let's build something in that empty space."
"Okay, what?"
"How about a HUGE modern mall?"
"But isn't that a 2000 year old palace next to it? Won't that be weird?"
"No"
"Okay, let's do it!"
There is this one place we always pass in taxis that is a gorgeous modern glass building and right in front of between the sidewalk and the street is a 2 story apartment building/shanty facing the main busy road. (Think A1A for Ft. Lauderdale busy). Weird.
Is it a beautiful city? I'm still struggling with this. There are parts that are gorgeous-the Forbidden City, all the temples, the parks, modern architecture, the houtangs, etc, but also parts with u-g-l-y buildings.

ALSO the first few days I was here I was confused because the sky was clear and blue. I thought maybe people overhyped the smog.

I was wrong.

I now constantly feel dirt in my nose. I expect my snot to be black. Gross, sorry. My friends who run say they have a hard time breathing.


I am currently accepting applications for an Asian boyfriend to give me Asian babies. (Not now mom, in the future.) Keith, a Filipino guy on my trip keeps denying me. I learned yesterday in a lecture that I can't adopt till 30 and married. 30 is far, but marriage is WAY further. I am also accepting applications for a fake husband to adopt with. Pay to be determined based on if you change diapers or not. Here is a picture of Keith and my Asian baby. (If you think I'm creepy wait until you hear Dave's song called "Get in my Bag" about his "Kinderbag" for stealing children.)


The speaker today also said something funny,
"Do you know China has a great wall? Great Wall is useless."
(Referring to how the wall can't protect China from modern threats)

This was a long entry. Kudos (or in Chinese Han Hoa -very good) if you read it, but I bet you skimmed. Fair enough-this is mostly for me anyway. If you read it, 10 points for you
My next one will be about what you guys care about-what I did.

H

Even though I am halfway across the world...

I am still able to see and hear my family via iChat.

Thanks, Apple.

Wednesday, May 6, 2009

My favorite menu translations














'I just toasted to Marx"

I am WAY too tired to write a full blog, so here are my last few days in a nutshell

11:15 p.m. China time

Chinese class is fun, albeit difficult.


We did calligraphy. Our teacher had been training 10 years. I was not a natural.



We went to the Hutangs (this is not spelled right) which are the real residential neighborhoods of Beijing. It was interesting to see a local market where people shop for their daily needs.

It was a far cry from the tourist attractions we have seen. I just wish I could talk to the local people more. Hand signals are only getting me so far-and mostly laughed at.


A genius China idea is that their playgrounds are actually exercise equipment. Brilliant. This makes so much sense.



Let me also stress that there are no open container laws in China, hence my classmates drinking on the playground. Weird.




The tour was led by an old friend of our professor. He is a white man born and raised in China, but his dad was English so he has an awesome accent. He may know James bond personally. He runs a school and works with NGOs. He also taught at Wellesley. At dinner I asked him about cheese and where I can get some in China. He said that when friends come to visit he asks them to bring a sharp cheddar. Then he gave me a name of a cheese shop so I can go on my free day.



We ate out with our tour guide and during the meal he had us all do a toast to Karl Marx because it was his birthday. We all raised our glasses and toasted. Never did I think I'd do that.




I already wrote about going out last night, so I'll skip to today.
We had Chinese class and then a lecture by a Manchu scholar who I found interesting. Of course my questions I asked him were about food.



After lunch was my favorite part of the trip so far. We went to a Buddhist monastery. A monk in full robes gave us a tour. I felt incredibly calm in the area of worship (temple?) and was interested in what he had to say. He referred to Buddhism as more of a wisdom than a religion. The monks presented us with hand carved wooden bead e, bananas, and a sign that read in Chinese something to the effect of "We come from different places but we share the same sun and the same earth."

I can't describe the feeling I felt there except for a feeling of total calm. I want to research Buddhism more and maybe even get into it. I have to read up.
The monks invited us to worship with them. It was an hour long beautiful ceremony full of chanting, walking around the temple, praying, drums, and song. I was in awe of the entire thing and even started crying-though I don't know why. (I cried at the Western Wall even though I don't believe in God). I was in this mental state that I think is what happens when people meditate. I was not asleep, but so calm I wasn't really awake.


I sound crazy.

But really, it was very moving and inspiring that these people are so dedicated to Buddhism and live their life so beautifully and peacefully. The Idiots Guide to Buddhism will be bought soon.

We had Peking Duck for dinner, but before that Joe and I were so hungry we bought our first street vendor food. About 7 cents US for spicy pork kabobs.
Repeat after me : Love the exchange rate.






Last note:
I had a funny conversation with Ma asking her if she was a party animal when she was younger. Three minutes and a little confusion later, I realized she thought I asked her if was a part of the Communist Party. Lost in translation moment.